This cable beanie was designed to perfectly match the cable scarf pattern we shared earlier, so you can knit a full set for yourself or as a thoughtful handmade gift. The cables add texture and warmth, while the ribbing makes sure it stays snug without being tight. If you’ve been wanting to dip your needles into cable knitting but were nervous about tackling something big, this little hat is the perfect way to practice.
Get more details about this project
What you need
- Yarn: 1 ball DK / light worsted (approx. 100 g)
- Needles: 4 mm (US 6) circular needles (40 cm) or DPNs
- Cable needle
- Tapestry needle
Gauge
20 sts = 10 cm (4″) in stockinette
Instructions
Gauge
20 sts = 10 cm (4″) in stockinette
Abbreviations:
CO = Cast on
K = Knit
P = Purl
sts = stitches
BO = Bind off
3/3 LC = Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front, K3, then K3 from cable needle
Pattern
CO 96 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for start of round.
Brim: K2, P2 ribbing for 12 rounds (or longer for a folded brim).
Body Pattern (multiple of 24 sts):
Rounds 1–4: K2, P2, K6, P2, K2, P10
Round 5 (Cable round): K2, P2, 3/3 LC, P2, K2, P10
Rounds 6–10: Repeat Rounds 1–4
Repeat these 10 rounds until hat measures about 15cm (6″) from cast-on edge.
Crown Decreases (switch to stockinette while keeping cables centered):
Round 1: (K10, K2tog) around – 88 sts
Round 2: Knit
Round 3: (K9, K2tog) around – 80 sts
Round 4: Knit
Round 5: (K8, K2tog) around – 72 sts
Round 6: (K7, K2tog) around – 64 sts
Round 7: (K6, K2tog) around – 56 sts
Round 8: (K5, K2tog) around – 48 sts
Round 9: (K4, K2tog) around – 40 sts
Round 10: (K3, K2tog) around – 32 sts
Round 11: (K2, K2tog) around – 24 sts
Round 12: (K1, K2tog) around – 16 sts
Round 13: (K2tog) around – 8 sts
Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining stitches, pull tight, and secure.
Finishing: Weave in all ends neatly. Lightly block if desired.
Why You’ll Love This Knit
This cable beanie is the ultimate in timeless style: it works up quickly, keeps you warm, and looks like something you’d buy in a boutique. Once you’ve made one, you’ll probably want to knit a few more in different colors (they make fabulous gifts for men and women alike).
Pair it with the matching cable scarf and you’ll have a coordinated set that shows off your skills without being overly complicated. Think of it as the kind of project you’ll come back to again and again when you need a reliable, cozy knit that just works.
So grab your needles, put the kettle on, and cast on tonight—you could have a brand-new hat by the weekend.
I’m not sure if I’m doing this correctly… It looks like the body pattern is supposed to be in multiples of 24 stitches, but the actual count is only 22. What do you suggest to do to correct this so that they are actually multiple multiples of 24 stitches?
Hi! Just spotted a small error in the cable beanie pattern I want to help you fix — no need to start over.
The repeat in the body section should be a multiple of 24 stitches, but as written (K2, P2, K6, P2, K2, P8) it only adds up to 22. That’s why it’s not coming out evenly. The fix is simple: change that last P8 to P10.
Here’s how to recover depending on where you are:
If you’re mid-round right now: Keep working the repeat as you have been until you hit the point where you’d normally run out — after 4 reps of K2, P2, K6, P2, K2, P8, you’ll have 8 stitches left before your marker. Just purl those 8 stitches to finish out the round. That brings you back to the correct 96 stitches. From the very next round onward, switch to the corrected repeat: K2, P2, K6, P2, K2, P10, repeated 4 times around. Use this corrected version for the rest of the body section, including swapping in the cable (3/3 LC) on cable rounds.
If you’ve already finished a round or two and it looks off: Don’t rip back to the cast-on — your brim ribbing is unaffected by this. Just tink (un-knit stitch by stitch) back to the top of your ribbed brim, then re-knit the body section forward using the corrected repeat above.
Honestly, if you’ve only got a round or two done with the old repeat, you can even leave them as-is — the only visible difference is the plain purl section being 2 stitches narrower in those rounds, which is pretty minor. Just use the corrected repeat from this point forward and it’ll even out.
Let me know if anything still isn’t lining up and I’ll help you sort it out!