Get more details about this project
What you need
About 80g worsted weight yarn, size #4
5.5mm crochet hook
Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitch marker, optional but helpful
For a printer-friendly version, download the ad-free Georgie Granny Square Bucket Hat PDF pattern on Etsy
Instructions
There is something very satisfying about a crochet bucket hat, isn’t there? It’s part practical sun hat, part retro throwback, and part “I made this from yarn I probably forgot I bought three years ago.”
This Georgie Granny Cluster Bucket Hat is a free crochet version of a granny-inspired bucket hat, worked in simple rounds using classic granny clusters. It has that relaxed handmade look without needing complicated shaping, and because the stitch pattern has a bit of natural stretch, it sits comfortably on the head without feeling stiff or helmet-like.
If you love easy wearable crochet projects, you might also enjoy browsing the free patterns in our CraftBits crochet patterns collection. And if you’re in a flower-making mood, this hat would look very cute with a little stitched-on embellishment from our easy crochet flower pattern.
For yarn, cotton or a cotton blend works best because it gives the hat a little structure while still being soft enough to wear. Acrylic will work too, but it may create a softer, floppier brim. If you’re making a few of these for markets, gifts, or teens who suddenly decide handmade hats are cool again, small cotton yarn packs from Amazon or Mary Maxim are handy to have on standby.
Materials
You will need:
DK weight yarn, CYCA #3
Color A: light blush pink, approximately 175–210 g / 385–460 yards
Color B: rose or mauve, approximately 75–95 g / 165–210 yards
3.75 mm crochet hook, or size needed to meet gauge
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
Blocking pins
Foam blocking mat or towel
Head form, bowl, balloon, or rolled towel for shaping
Optional: garment steamer or steam iron for shaping the brim. Do not press the iron directly onto the crochet.
Gauge
One blocked 4-round hexagon should measure approximately:
3.25 inches flat-to-flat
3.75 inches point-to-point
Gauge matters for this project because the hat size is created by the joined hexagons. If your motifs are larger or smaller, your finished hat will change size.
Finished Size
The finished hat fits approximately a 22–23 inch adult M/L head circumference, depending on your yarn, hook, blocking, and joining tension.
The two rows of side motifs create a deeper bucket hat shape than a simple 7-motif hexagon hat.
Abbreviations
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
sp / sps — space / spaces
beg — beginning
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
Pattern Notes
Ch-4 at the start of Round 1 counts as dc + ch 1.
Ch-3 at the start of Rounds 2–4 counts as the first dc.
The foundation section has two foundation rounds. Round 3 is worked separately as the first Color A petal round.
All 13 motifs are the same size. Do not make a larger 5-round crown for this version.
The crown motif is named for placement only. It is not larger than the other motifs.
Block every motif before joining. This makes the edges cleaner and the assembly far less fiddly.
The lower six hexagons form the brim. After joining, use blocking or gentle steam to encourage the brim row to flare outward. Only a small border is worked around the bottom edge.
Hexagon Motif — Make 13
Make 13 identical hexagons.
Work Rounds 1–2 in Color B.
Work Rounds 3–4 in Color A.
Round 1 — Color B
Make a slip knot, ch 4, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Ch 4, which counts as dc + ch 1.
[Dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times.
Sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join.
You should have 12 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces.
Round 2 — Color B
Sl st into first ch-1 sp.
Ch 3, which counts as dc.
Dc in same sp, ch 1.
[2 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 11 times.
Sl st to top of beg ch-3.
Fasten off Color B.
You should have 12 groups of 2 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces.
Round 3 — Color A
Join Color A to any ch-1 sp.
Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1.
[3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 11 times.
Sl st to top of beg ch-3.
You should have 12 groups of 3 dc and 12 ch-1 spaces.
Round 4 — Hexagon Corners — Color A
Sl st to first ch-1 sp.
Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, 3 dc in same sp. This makes the first corner.
Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1.
[3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc] in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1.
Rep from * 4 more times.
Sl st to top of beg ch-3.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
You should have 6 corners, 6 side clusters, and 18 ch-1 spaces.
Motif Accuracy Check
Each finished motif should have:
6 corner ch-1 spaces
1 side cluster between each pair of corners
6 even sides
If one motif is noticeably smaller or larger, re-block it before joining. A little patience here saves a lot of muttering later.
Color Placement
For the pink mockup look, use Color B for the flower center on every motif and Color A for the outer hexagon rounds.
For a stronger outline, join the motifs with Color B or work the final border in Color B.
For a softer look, join with Color A so the flower centers stand out without a heavy seam.
Motif Layout
You will have:
1 crown hexagon
6 upper side hexagons
6 lower brim hexagons
Label them if helpful:
Crown motif: C
Upper side motifs: U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6
Lower brim motifs: B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, B6
The lower brim motifs are full hexagons. There are no filler pieces, half motifs, or plain brim panels.
Assembly — Motif Brim Style
Use either a flat whip-stitch join with a yarn needle or a slip-stitch join with your hook.
For the neatest finish, match the corner spaces first, then join the stitches between the corners evenly.
Step 1 — Block the Motifs
Dampen each motif, pin it into a clean hexagon, and allow it to dry fully.
Do not stretch the crown larger than the others. All motifs should be the same size.
Step 2 — Join 6 Upper Side Motifs Around the Crown
Place the crown motif RS up.
Arrange the 6 upper side motifs around it, one on each side of the crown.
Join one full edge of each upper side motif to one full edge of the crown.
Then join adjacent upper side motifs to each other along their touching side edges to form the upper hat wall.
At this stage, the hat should look like a shallow cap.
Step 3 — Try On the Upper Hat Section
Before adding the brim motifs, place the upper section on a head form or try it on gently.
It should sit like a shallow cap.
If it is tight, re-block the upper side row slightly wider.
If it is loose, use a firmer join or add a hidden inside sc round later.
Step 4 — Add the 6 Lower Brim Motifs
Place one lower brim motif below each upper side motif.
Join the top edge of each lower motif to the lower edge of the upper motif above it.
Then join neighboring lower brim motifs to each other along their touching side edges to close the lower row into a ring.
For a stronger flared brim, keep the side joins of the lower brim motifs slightly looser than the upper side joins. This gives the brim row enough room to angle outward when blocked.
Step 5 — Check the Brim Shape
The lower row should naturally create a scalloped, hexagon-shaped brim.
It may look a little wavy before shaping. That is normal. The final blocking or steaming step encourages the brim to sit outward rather than straight down.
Border Edging
This edging tidies the bottom of the motif brim. It is not a separate plain bucket-hat brim; it simply finishes the lower hexagon edge.
Round 1 — Edge Round
With RS facing, join Color A or Color B to any stitch along the bottom edge of the lower brim row.
Ch 1.
Sc evenly around the entire lower edge, working 1 sc into each dc and each ch-1 sp where possible.
At each lower hexagon point, work 2 sc into the corner sp to keep the point smooth.
At each valley between motifs, work 1 firm sc into the join or adjacent space so there are no gaps.
Sl st to first sc to join.
Round 2 — Optional Firming Round
Ch 1, sc in each sc around.
Work 2 sc at each of the 6 lower points only if the brim is pulling upward.
If the brim is already flaring nicely, work this round even.
Sl st to join.
Finish Edge
Work reverse sc, also called crab stitch, or sl st in each stitch around for a neat outer edge.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Important: If the motif brim starts to ruffle, do not add more increases. Work even, or stop after Round 1 and finish with slip stitch. If the brim pulls upward, add the optional increases at the 6 lower points.
Brim Shaping Options
Because this brim is made from hexagons, shaping matters. Choose the method that suits your yarn and how dramatic you want the brim flare to be.
Option 1 — Wet Blocking for a Soft Natural Flare
Lightly soak or mist the finished hat until damp, not dripping.
Place the crown over a head form, bowl, or balloon.
Gently pull the lower brim hexagons outward and pin the scalloped points evenly.
Let the hat dry completely before removing it from the form.
Option 2 — Steam Shaping for a More Defined Brim
Place the hat on a head form or bowl.
Hold the brim in the direction you want it to sit.
Hover a garment steamer or steam iron above the fabric. Do not press the iron onto the crochet.
Steam lightly, then shape the lower hexagon row outward with your fingers.
Allow the hat to cool and dry fully while held in shape.
Option 3 — Stronger Bucket Brim
After the edging, add one more slip-stitch round around the bottom edge for firmness.
Steam the edge outward and let it cool on a flat surface with the crown raised on a bowl.
For a very soft yarn, a slightly smaller hook on the edging rounds can help the brim hold its shape.
Steam safety note: Use gentle steam only, especially with acrylic yarn. Too much heat can flatten the stitches or change the feel of the yarn. Always test on a spare motif first if you are unsure.
Fit Adjustments and Troubleshooting
Hat is too tight:
Block the upper side row slightly wider, use a looser join, or remake motifs with a hook one size larger.
Hat is too loose:
Use a firmer join, add a hidden inside round of sc around the head opening, or use a slightly smaller hook next time.
Brim hangs straight down:
Wet block or steam the lower hexagon row outward. Pin the lower points so they dry in a flared position.
Brim ruffles too much:
Skip optional increases in the edging. Steam gently downward and outward, smoothing the waves by hand.
Bottom edge looks uneven:
Check that all lower brim motifs were blocked to the same size and that points and valleys are evenly spaced before edging.
Finishing
Weave in all ends securely on the WS, especially around joins and edging.
Give the hat one final shaping over a head form or bowl.
Allow the finished hat to dry completely before wearing or photographing.
For the cleanest photos, shape the brim first, then let it rest for a few hours before taking pictures.
CraftBits Editor Note
Prefer a printable copy? You can also grab the ad-free PDF version of the Georgie Granny Square Bucket Hat crochet pattern in our Etsy shop. It’s handy if you like to print your patterns, keep them in a project folder, or avoid scrolling while you’re counting clusters.
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