Free Crochet Pattern – Popping Lizard Coaster

There is something wonderfully ridiculous about a crochet coaster with a face, isn’t there? A plain round coaster is useful, of course, but a little lizard coaster with tiny legs, big eyes, and a tongue poking out? That is the sort of thing that makes people pick it up and say, “Did you make this?” which, let’s be honest, is half the fun.

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What you need

Green yarn for the coaster body, head, legs, and tail

Red yarn for the inside of the mouth

Pink yarn for the tongue

White yarn for the eyes

Small black safety eyes or black embroidery thread

Crochet hook to suit your yarn

Yarn needle

Scissors

Stitch marker

Poly-fil, optional for lightly shaping the head

Hot glue gun or sewing needle for assembly

Cotton yarn is a good choice for crochet coasters because it gives the project a firmer finish and handles everyday use better than very fluffy yarn. If your yarn is thin, you can hold two strands together for the coaster body to give it more structure. A small crochet hook set, yarn needles, and a mini glue gun are handy supplies to keep nearby if you like making crochet home decor projects.

Instructions

This Free Popping Lizard Coaster Crochet Pattern is one of those wonderfully silly crochet projects that makes people smile before they’ve even put a mug on it. The lizard is worked with a simple round coaster body, then finished with a long tail, tiny legs, big eyes, and an open mouth with a little pink tongue poking out.

It’s practical, but it also has personality — which is exactly the sort of crochet project I love for using up oddments from the yarn basket. You only need small amounts of green, white, red, and pink yarn, so it’s a lovely scrap yarn crochet pattern if your stash is starting to look a bit like it has its own postcode. 

Pattern Update – June 2026

A couple of things are worth noting if your coaster is turning out too large or the jaw section is confusing:

Hook size: This pattern works best with a 3.5mm or 4mm hook, regardless of what your yarn label recommends. Cotton coasters need a tighter tension to sit firm and flat. If you used a larger hook (5mm+), your coaster will be noticeably bigger and floppier than intended.

Body size: At worsted weight with a 4mm hook, the finished coaster measures approximately 5–6 inches across. If you’d prefer a smaller coaster, stop after Round 3 (36 sts) rather than working Round 4.

Upper Jaw correction: The “Ch 2” at the start of each jaw row was a typo and caused confusion for several readers. Ignore the turning chain entirely — just work the stitches directly:

• Row 1: Dc inc, 6 dc, dc inc. (10 sts)
• Row 2: Dc dec, 6 dc, dc dec. (8 sts)
• Row 3: Dc dec, 4 dc, dc dec. (6 sts)
• Row 4: Dc dec, 2 dc, dc dec. (4 sts)

 

Crochet Lizard Coaster Pattern

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

Supplies

Small amounts of cotton yarn in green, red and pink
Small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread
Crochet hook to suit your yarn
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch marker, optional
Safety eyes or black yarn for embroidered eyes
Hot glue or fabric glue, optional, for securing small parts

A medium weight cotton yarn with a 4mm hook works well, but you can use a slightly smaller or larger hook depending on the yarn you have available. Just remember that a tighter tension will give you a firmer coaster.

Abbreviations

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = increase, work 2 stitches into the same stitch
dec = decrease, crochet 2 stitches together
st = stitch
sts = stitches
rnd = round
rep = repeat

Pattern Notes

The main coaster body is worked in joined rounds.

The tail, head, eyes and legs are made separately and sewn onto the body.

The mouth is made in layers, with an upper jaw, lower jaw, red mouth insert and pink tongue.

For a coaster that sits nicely under a mug, sew the raised pieces firmly and keep the underside as flat as possible.

Main Body

Using green yarn, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, work 11 dc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3. Pull ring closed.
12 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.
24 sts

Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.
36 sts

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of next 2 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch 3.
48 sts

Rnd 5: Ch 1, work reverse sc around the edge. Join with a sl st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Tail

Using green yarn, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Work 4 sc into the ring.
4 sts

Rnd 2: *Sc in next st, inc in next st; rep from * around.
6 sts

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around.
6 sts

Rnd 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, inc in next st; rep from * around.
8 sts

Rnd 5: *Sc in each of next 3 sts, inc in next st; rep from * around.
10 sts

Rnd 6: *Sc in each of next 3 sts, dec; rep from * around.
8 sts

Rnd 7: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, dec; rep from * around.
6 sts

Rnd 8: *Sc in next st, dec; rep from * around.
4 sts

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Lightly flatten the tail. Sew it to one side of the main body.

Head

Using green yarn, ch 14.

Join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist the chain.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc dec, 10 dc, hdc dec. Join with a sl st.
12 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc inc, 2 dc, 6 hdc, 2 dc, dc inc. Join with a sl st.
14 sts

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc, 3 hdc, 4 sc, 3 hdc, 2 dc. Join with a sl st.
14 sts

Do not fasten off. You will now work the upper jaw across the next 8 sts.

Upper Jaw

The upper jaw is worked in rows across 8 stitches of the head.

Row 1: Ch 2, dc inc, 6 dc, dc inc. Turn.
10 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, dc dec, 6 dc, dc dec. Turn.
8 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, dc dec, 4 dc, dc dec. Turn.
6 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, dc dec, 2 dc, dc dec.
4 sts

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Lower Jaw

Rejoin green yarn to the remaining lower front section of the head, directly underneath the upper jaw.

Row 1: Ch 1, work 6 hdc evenly across the lower jaw stitches. Turn.
6 sts

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc dec, 2 hdc, hdc dec.
4 sts

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Inside Mouthpiece

Using red yarn, ch 10.

This piece is worked around both sides of the foundation chain to create a small oval insert for the open mouth.

Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work 8 sc, 3 sc in the last ch. Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, work 7 sc, 2 sc in the last ch. Join with a sl st.
20 sts

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 7 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, 7 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. Join with a sl st.
26 sts

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew the red mouthpiece inside the open mouth, placing it between the upper and lower jaw.

Tongue

Using pink yarn, attach yarn to the centre front of the red mouthpiece.

Ch 10.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work 9 sc back along the chain.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

For a forked tongue, you can split the end by adding a tiny ch 2 on each side at the tip, but a simple straight tongue is easier and keeps the coaster less bulky.

Eyes

Make 2.

Using green yarn, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the ring.
6 sts

Rnd 2: Sc in each st around.
6 sts

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Attach safety eyes before sewing the eye bumps onto the head, or embroider the eyes using black yarn or embroidery thread.

If this coaster may be used around young children, embroidered eyes are the safer choice. Tiny safety eyes can still be a choking hazard if they come loose, and nobody needs that sort of drama over a coaster.

Arms and Legs

Make 4.

Using green yarn, ch 7.

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each of next 2 chains.

First toe: Ch 3, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and next ch, then sl st back into the same main chain stitch.

Second toe: Ch 3, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and next ch, then sl st back into the next main chain stitch.

Work 4 sc along the remaining main chain.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Repeat until you have 4 legs.

Assembly

Place the main body flat on your work surface.

Sew the tail to the back or side of the body.

Sew the head to the opposite side of the body, positioning the open mouth so it faces outward.

Sew the red mouthpiece inside the mouth.

Sew or secure the tongue to the centre of the mouthpiece.

Sew the eyes onto the top of the head.

Sew the legs evenly around the body, with 2 legs on each side.

Weave in all loose ends.

If needed, lightly block the coaster so the body sits flat. A little steam or damp blocking can help smooth the circle, especially if your yarn has been living in the bottom of the stash basket for longer than you care to admit.

Finishing Tip

For a sturdier coaster, you can sew or glue a circle of felt to the back. This helps cover the sewing ends and gives the coaster a neat finished underside.

If you are making this as a gift, pair it with a cute mug and a tea bag or coffee sachet. It makes a fun little handmade gift without needing a huge amount of yarn or time.

Project Notes

This crochet lizard coaster is a great scrap yarn project because it only needs small amounts of yarn in each colour. It is also a fun crochet pattern for markets, teacher gifts, novelty mug rugs, reptile lovers, or anyone who likes handmade projects with a bit of personality.

A set of these in different shades of green would be adorable for a garden-themed gift basket. You could also make them in bright colours for a more cartoon-style lizard, or use earthy browns and greens if you want a little gecko-inspired look.